Day 4 - Fischer Camp to Lava Tower
(14,500 ft./ 4600 m)

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It's so cold this morning we drink our tea in the tent. We spend the day walking 'pole pole' (very slowly) through the lava fields and up to Lava Tower, which is very aptly named. As we are now in the alpine desert, vegetation is getting more scarce, just lichens on the lava rocks and a few of the papery dry white daisies.

About a hour from our camp at the base of Lava Tower, we pass through the camp of another group of trekkers. It looks like a small village of orange and white tents. These are the only other people we have seen so far; Victor tells us they will be joining us tomorrow at Arrow Glacier Camp. Their party consists of 14 trekkers, 90 porters, 3 cooks, and 5 guides -- a veritable army. Louise and I feel very fortunate it's just the two of us and our relatively 'small' group of porters and guides.

The walk from the 'army' camp is taxing; I reach Lava Tower out of breath and feel lightheaded. After lunch and a quick nap, Raymond, Gideon (a porter), Louise and I climb to the top of Lava Tower. Two thirds of the way up, I realize I have no film, so I went all the way back to camp to get a roll. Well worth the trip, because the view from the top of Lava (same height as Mt. Meru) was spectacular. We have a clear view of the Western Breach and our approach to the summit (still another 5,000' up). We probably should have been roped for this climb; it was tricky and difficult in some place. Going down was no piece of cake either.

By now it's been four days since we've had a shower; we're feeling dirty; there are no more bad hair days, just bad hair; our clothes are filthy. A common refrain "What were we thinking?" One of the new porters has altitude sickness, so Victor makes arrangements for him to return to Mweka with some of the porters from the other camp, along with two of their climbers.

Photos from today, June 15, 2003.

Day 4 begins	Ready to go again	How to visit ancestors en route	More trail
Trail	Louise on trail	Lava rocks and lichens	En route
Alpine zone	Trail through alpine zone	Western Breach	Break time
Further along the trail	Western Breach in background	Our goal today, Lava Tower	Our real goal
Camp at Lava Tower	Looking back	Looking back	View of Western Breach from top of Lava Tower
Our route up	Looking down at Lava camp	Summit of Lava Tower (~15,500')	Us with Raymond and porters
L making her mark	H adding to the pile	L coming down	Nimble
We climbed this